Tuesday 2-14-06 Valentines Day
We arrived in Merida on Sunday after a 5 hour bus ride from Playa del Carmen with the obligatory bang-bang movies on the bus. The first had John Travolta in the jungles of Panama doing something weird with the military and the second had Sly Stallone as a bodyguard in what appeared to be an attempt at comedy plus blod and guts. Maybe intelligent dialog is too hard to translate compared to graphic violence.
It was bittersweet to say goodbye to Playa del Carmen, especially the wonderful staff at the hotel/apartment we stayed at for a month. The owner and manager are brothers who are originally from Merida and they assured us that we would love Merida. Well, they were absolutely right! Our plans had been to just spend 2 or 3 nights here, but it's easy to see that we'll be here at least a week.
Miles's "Lucky Cookie" kicked in while searching for lodging. Our Lonely Planet Guide Bood had suggested a former appliance showroom that has been converted into a hotel by a local artist. Interesting art, but skanky rooms. Strike 2 for Lonely Planet since they led us astray in Playa del Carmen as well. Instead of lodging at "ReCycle North Moves South", Miles and I hit the street in search of something better. Miles noticed a low-key, handpainted sign that said "hostel" tacked next to a door on an otherwise solid wall. Merida is a city of colonial design, so the sidewalks are narrow and you mostly only see walls and shuttered windows and doors. The mystery is what lies behind the doors.
We got lucky, and behind the door was the wonderful private home of Enrique, who at aged 58 or so has renovated the big house that has been in his family for generations. 14 foot high ceilings, antique clocks everywhere, super clean bathrooms, and a well stocked kitchen to help ourselves to breakfast, all for a whopping $30 a night. Enrique has a passion for renovating antique cars, antique clocks, and all sorts of things except his eyeglasses. He even cranked up an original Edison phonograph for us that plays a wax record in the shape of a paper towel tube. He also cranked up the Victrola in the corner as well. And, he pulled out the Readers Digest from 1968 that was written in English and had an article on the successful integration of Ludlow, Ohio and its neighbor Shaker Heights. Funny thing, I remember our living room in Shaker Heights in about 1968 and a black teenager playing the piano in it. Rather odd to have it all come back to me in a gorgeous old home in Merida, Mexico. The only other folks in the home are a couple from the south of France (he worked in landscaping for the "Year in Provence" author) and a young woman from Mexico who is in Purchasing for the federal electrical commission. Her name is Yokiko. Yup, her grandparents came from Japan to Mexico.
Sunday afternoon, we ate at a downtown hotel buffet for pretty cheap. It reminded me of the Carlysle in NYC and I ate my first broccoli in over a month. Sunday evening found us enjoying the street party that Merida holds every Sunday in the main square complete with lots of dancing in the streets and street food. I love fried bananas!
Monday we caught a short bus out to the port/beach at Progresso with a return to Merida for more dancing in the streets. Monday night it was a folkloric ballet complete with bottles and trays balanced on heads. It reminded me of dancing with the Romero sisters at the language festivals in Greeley while in high school. Fortunately, I never had to balance anything on my head back then.
Oh, we did get to cause/participate in a royal argument on our combi bus back from Progresso. The driver charged us for 4 seats, and then told Jill to sit on Ruth's lap so he could shove another passenger in. Between two other passengers who took offense at the injustice, the lousy behavior of the last passenger to board, and my own contributions in Spanish, we stopped after just a few blocks and threw the last guy off. Another eye opening event for Miles and Jill.
Today, while walking across town, we accidentally came upon the Merida English Library that is well stocked with titles. And then we wound up at the Centennial Park where there is a large zoo and lots of things for kids to do for free or for cheap. Miles and I rode in bumper boats. They were the strangest devices consisting of a large innertube with a seat and a 2 h.p. Honda outboard motor between your legs. They worked great, and fortunately the motors were 4 stroke considering your nose is right next to the motor. Jill and Miles also drove the "go karts" which in classic non-U.S. fashion included some questionable parts all slapped together to make a thing with 4 wheels move. It was a great opportunity for Jill and Miles that will probably disappear once Mexico discovers personal injury lawyers.
Who knows when we'll leave Merida, but we're having a blast in the meantime.
There's a ton of backlog to write about Playa del Carmen as well, but there's too much to go explore instead.
Happy Days!
Paul
We arrived in Merida on Sunday after a 5 hour bus ride from Playa del Carmen with the obligatory bang-bang movies on the bus. The first had John Travolta in the jungles of Panama doing something weird with the military and the second had Sly Stallone as a bodyguard in what appeared to be an attempt at comedy plus blod and guts. Maybe intelligent dialog is too hard to translate compared to graphic violence.
It was bittersweet to say goodbye to Playa del Carmen, especially the wonderful staff at the hotel/apartment we stayed at for a month. The owner and manager are brothers who are originally from Merida and they assured us that we would love Merida. Well, they were absolutely right! Our plans had been to just spend 2 or 3 nights here, but it's easy to see that we'll be here at least a week.
Miles's "Lucky Cookie" kicked in while searching for lodging. Our Lonely Planet Guide Bood had suggested a former appliance showroom that has been converted into a hotel by a local artist. Interesting art, but skanky rooms. Strike 2 for Lonely Planet since they led us astray in Playa del Carmen as well. Instead of lodging at "ReCycle North Moves South", Miles and I hit the street in search of something better. Miles noticed a low-key, handpainted sign that said "hostel" tacked next to a door on an otherwise solid wall. Merida is a city of colonial design, so the sidewalks are narrow and you mostly only see walls and shuttered windows and doors. The mystery is what lies behind the doors.
We got lucky, and behind the door was the wonderful private home of Enrique, who at aged 58 or so has renovated the big house that has been in his family for generations. 14 foot high ceilings, antique clocks everywhere, super clean bathrooms, and a well stocked kitchen to help ourselves to breakfast, all for a whopping $30 a night. Enrique has a passion for renovating antique cars, antique clocks, and all sorts of things except his eyeglasses. He even cranked up an original Edison phonograph for us that plays a wax record in the shape of a paper towel tube. He also cranked up the Victrola in the corner as well. And, he pulled out the Readers Digest from 1968 that was written in English and had an article on the successful integration of Ludlow, Ohio and its neighbor Shaker Heights. Funny thing, I remember our living room in Shaker Heights in about 1968 and a black teenager playing the piano in it. Rather odd to have it all come back to me in a gorgeous old home in Merida, Mexico. The only other folks in the home are a couple from the south of France (he worked in landscaping for the "Year in Provence" author) and a young woman from Mexico who is in Purchasing for the federal electrical commission. Her name is Yokiko. Yup, her grandparents came from Japan to Mexico.
Sunday afternoon, we ate at a downtown hotel buffet for pretty cheap. It reminded me of the Carlysle in NYC and I ate my first broccoli in over a month. Sunday evening found us enjoying the street party that Merida holds every Sunday in the main square complete with lots of dancing in the streets and street food. I love fried bananas!
Monday we caught a short bus out to the port/beach at Progresso with a return to Merida for more dancing in the streets. Monday night it was a folkloric ballet complete with bottles and trays balanced on heads. It reminded me of dancing with the Romero sisters at the language festivals in Greeley while in high school. Fortunately, I never had to balance anything on my head back then.
Oh, we did get to cause/participate in a royal argument on our combi bus back from Progresso. The driver charged us for 4 seats, and then told Jill to sit on Ruth's lap so he could shove another passenger in. Between two other passengers who took offense at the injustice, the lousy behavior of the last passenger to board, and my own contributions in Spanish, we stopped after just a few blocks and threw the last guy off. Another eye opening event for Miles and Jill.
Today, while walking across town, we accidentally came upon the Merida English Library that is well stocked with titles. And then we wound up at the Centennial Park where there is a large zoo and lots of things for kids to do for free or for cheap. Miles and I rode in bumper boats. They were the strangest devices consisting of a large innertube with a seat and a 2 h.p. Honda outboard motor between your legs. They worked great, and fortunately the motors were 4 stroke considering your nose is right next to the motor. Jill and Miles also drove the "go karts" which in classic non-U.S. fashion included some questionable parts all slapped together to make a thing with 4 wheels move. It was a great opportunity for Jill and Miles that will probably disappear once Mexico discovers personal injury lawyers.
Who knows when we'll leave Merida, but we're having a blast in the meantime.
There's a ton of backlog to write about Playa del Carmen as well, but there's too much to go explore instead.
Happy Days!
Paul
posted by The Lambersons at 5:29 PM
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